Tommy’s donates to WMMR’s Camp out for hunger – 2011

1 dollar from every state inspection this year at Tommy’s Automotive was donated to Philabundance at Preston and Steve’s Camp Out for Hunger.

This is the second year we have donated, and we won’t get into specifics but there were nearly twice as many inspections in 2011.  Thanks to all of you who had their car inspected at Tommy’s this year.  We hope to inspect even more cars this year so that we can donate more at next years Camp Out.

You can hear them talking on the radio about it in December of 2010.  Tommy’s on MMR.  Lets hope he can get another radio plug this year.

Tommy’s is expanding

Auto Repair ShopWe’ve started to expand into the shop next door to our location in the alley on Bolmar St.  This new space will have an additional repair bay, and a new office and waiting room.

Thanks to our loyal customer base for keeping us busy enough to expand.  We thank all of you who have referred friends and family to our shop, and posted your positive feedback in an online review for others to see.

How to get a Tommy’s Automotive T-Shirt

Option A: Steal one of Tom’s dirty work shirts

Option B: Get Tommy’s Automotive a new customer.

Tom is giving anyone who refers a new customer to Tommy’s Automotive a T-shirt.   Ask about it the next time your in.

Our First Photo Gallery

Student Discount: Save 10% on Parts and Labor

West Chester University Car RepairIf you go to West Chester University or any of the other schools in our area you can save 10% on your repair bill when you bring your vehicle and your Student ID to Tommy’s Automotive.

We know that most college students don’t have a lot money for unexpected repairs so we try to help get you back on the road for a little less. Tell your friends about Tommy’s Automotive on Bolmar Street.

This discount applies to everything except for the cost of tires.

Why are dealerships so expensive? Are they ever worth it?

Q: Tom, when should I go to my car manufacturer’s dealership for repair? Is it ever worth the money?

A: The easy answer is if your car is under warranty, go to the dealership, if your warranty has expired, take it to a private shop. You should also take your vehicle to the dealership for any recalls and service bulletins.

In general you will pay much more for your repair at a dealership. You will get a mechanic trained to work specifically on your type of car, but unless you have a rare and complicated problem, a competent mechanic at a local garage will likely give you the same parts and service for up to 40% below what you would pay at a dealership. Some people feel that they need to take their cars to dealerships for factory maintenance. The requirements for factory maintenance are published online and can be performed by any auto repair shop.

I think trust is the most important thing in auto repair is the customer mechanic relationship. You are less likely to get to know the mechanics at a dealership and they are less likely to get to know you and vehicle. On the other hand a dealership represents a multi-million dollar corporation, so they go to great lengths to make sure their service is consistent and reliable. You need to do some research on a private shop before you take your car there because they could be way over priced, unreliable, or just plain rude.

Alicia's Mitsubishi

Q: I have a 2001 mitsibushi galant es. when ever i hit 45 or 50 mph it jerks and sometimes when i park it just cuts off. what could be the problem??

A: Thanks for the submission Alicia. There are a few components that can cause a similar problem. One of them is a transmission issue, a part of the transmission called the torque converter is designed to “lock up” at highway speeds to help out with fuel economy. If the converter gets stuck locked on it can cause the car to stall when coming to a stop. The other main cause that comes to mind is a faulty EGR valve. This component is designed to reduce emissions when the engine is under a load, but if the EGR sticks in the open position at the wrong time it can cause a jerking condition, and or stalling concern. Is the check engine light on? If so this could narrow it down easily. The best bet in this situation is to have a technician drive the car and perform some basic diagnostic tests. Let me know what fixes it. Good Luck!

Summer Driving Tips

Q: Tom, I am taking a car trip with my family this summer, what are some things I should check before we leave?

A: Long car trips for summer vacation can really turn nasty if your vehicle breaks down. We have compiled a short list of things to check out before you take that long awaited trip to the shore.

1. The Cooling System – Take a look at the coolant container under your hood and top it off if necessary. If you need to add coolant more than once in 6 months, or if you smell a sweet burning odor then you probably have a leak. Also, if you can’t remember the last time your coolant was flushed its a good idea to have that done. Dirty fluid can clog parts of your cooling system and cause your vehicle to overheat.

2. Tire Pressure – Be sure you check your tire pressure on all tires and make sure it is in the recommended range. Remember that their is a difference between the maximum pressure listed on the tire and the recommended pressure. Also, for every 10 degrees tire pressure increases by one pound. If your tires were filled in the freezing cold this winter, they may be over pressurized in the summer heat. For those of you packing your car to the brim for vacation its not a bad idea to look for recommended tire pressure for “heavy loads” in your owners manual. If your taking a long trip you should invest in a full size spare tire if you don’t have one already.

3. The Oil – Driving long distances in excessive heat puts a lot of stress on your motor oil. If you are due for an oil change don’t wait until after your trip. Oil that has been used for more than 3000 miles breaks down more easily and can put more wear on your engine. If you are taking a heavy load or towing a trailer, some car manufacturers recommend using a thicker type of oil that is better suited for the heat.

4. The air conditioning – Turn on your AC to make sure you are getting nice cold air out of the vents. If it is not as cold as you remember then it is probably time to have your AC recharged. If you are getting cold air then your AC system is working and their is no need to get it checked. If your AC is not working and you think you can tough it out, be careful. In some newer cars, the AC is tied to several other components that may not function correctly if the AC is in need of repair.

If for some reason you are not taking your car or truck to Tommy’s Automotive on Bolmar St in West Chester, then you can ask your mechanic to check for the following.

1. The cooling system – including the radiator, coolant, belts, hoses, cooling fans, heater core and water pump.

2. Tires – check tread depth, uneven wear and tire pressure.

3. The front end: check ball joints, tie rod ends and steering components.

4. Change the oil. Look for leaks.

5. Check the air conditioning system: refrigerant level, compressor clutch and belts.

6. Check the tranny. Are you close to the recommended service interval? Is the fluid nice and clean? Any leaks?

Battery/Starter Problem

Q: I own a 1990 Buick Century, 6cyl. I bought a new battery and 2 battery cables. When I attempted to connect the cables to the battery, the engine cranked-like it was trying to start- as if I turned the ignition key. What’s wrong? – RT

A: It sounds to me like you need to check your connections. If your cable from the battery to the starter is installed incorrectly then the starter could be powered whenever the battery is connected instead of just when the key is turned. I know that if one of the cables connecting to the starter is at all touching the other terminal on the starter it will cause this problem.

My axle boot is torn

Q: My right front outer CV axle boot is torn. The car rides fine right now. How long do you recommend I go before replacing the boot/axle?

A: The purpose of the boot on a CV axle is to retain the grease that lubricates the axle joint. When the boot tears the grease is thrown out of the joint while driving. The axle will not last long without the proper lubrication. There is no way to tell for sure how long it will last, however there is a way to tell when it absolutely must be replaced. If it starts making a clicking noise when turning it is on its last leg and needs to be replaced asap.